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If you put a pin in the map two kilometres north of San Marino (the world’s smallest republic; to know anything about it you have to be either very rich, or to have collected stamps as a child) it would probably land on San Valentino. And while tax havens are all very well, it’s the wine that caught my attention. Roberto Mascarin is the humble, incredibly talented man behind these astonishingly good-value wines. The whole place is meticulously cared for and small stainless-steel tanks allow fermentation plot by plot. The Sangiovese di Romagna Bacaia really delivers in terms of fresh, juicy, dark-fruited flavour. Like Roberto, it’s big-hearted and generous.