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Barbera is one of California’s most widely planted red varieties. Why? Because Barbera naturally has screechingly high levels of acidity and if you’re stuck in the baking hot Central Valley, you need lots of natural acidity. It’s not so torrid in Piemonte, from where this wine comes, and so Marco Porello softens the acidity by letting the fruit ripen well into the autumn. The result is a comfortably upholstered, warming red that doesn’t need any oak to create a generous, full-bodied impression. Baked plum, blackcurrant jam, and liquorice are just some of the notes on the nose. Line this up with a great big lump of beef and watch it work its magic.