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The history of Saladini Pilastri, a noble family from Ascoli Piceno, stretches back more than a thousand years although the family has been involved in viticulture for 'only' three centuries. Its 320-hectare property is located in the very south of the Marche (overlooking the Abruzzo border). There are no airs or graces here; you're as likely to see the Count in dungarees mucking out a tank as anyone else. In 1994 the estate converted to organic, one of the first in Italy to embrace the movement. Life continues here much as it always has done, marked by seasons rather than by hours. The vines have been doing their stuff for ages, too, with Trebbiano, Passerina and Pecorino making an appearance in this languid, all-too-easy white.