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Sardinia has seen more than 75% of its vineyards removed up since 1990. Extreme poverty allied to generous EU subsidies has led to widespread grubbing up of older, less productive vineyards. It’s a great shame as the island is blessed with an ideal climate and the viticultural legacy of multiple invaders. As far as white grapes are concerned, Vermentino is the stand-out star of the show, and this unoaked version from Ledda is the best. The vineyard is planted on weathered granite where the vines struggle to survive and produce such a meagre crop that the resulting wine is rich, oily and coats the mouth with notes of tinned peaches, lychee, tangerine and a herbal twist. This will age well but is drinking a treat at the moment.