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The Cantina Sociale Clavesana stands proudly pickled in the aspic of time on the High Street in Dogliani. Founded in 1959 it makes no concessions to modernity; the classic petrol-pump dispensing system for local consumption occupies pride of place in the 'showroom'. Starting with 32 original members (amazingly they were all still alive for the 40th anniversary) the consortium now comprises 215 members with 385 ha under vine and a 2,000,000 bottle annual capacity. It's difficult to imagine a more decent, hard-working organisation. This is a superb Dolcetto for pocket money vinified entirely in steel.